Review newsday.comWho's dining at Bamboo, the pretty Asian-chic restaurant that has opened in East Hampton? Parents and kids dressed in shorts and sneakers, tanned young men and women in "Sex and the City" high-fashion and middle-aged couples wearing slacks and cardigans. In short, a cross-section of the East End. One draw is a menu that includes sushi as well as "small" and "large" plates of well executed (and well priced) Asian-fusion fare. Another is the pedigree of the kitchen: sushi chef Morgansan Yao worked at multi-star Nobu in Manhattan and kitchen chef Patrick Fromm comes from popular Laundry in East Hampton. And then there's the young, attractive and earnest crew, schooled in pacing a meal. Try a sake martini and nibble on crunchy wasabi-coated peas. You might start by sharing the "combination b" assortment of maki rolls: California, spicy tuna, spicy yellowtail, and tuna-avocado, all fresh and delicious. Better yet, though, is the "angel" roll, an ingenious combination of blackened tuna, eel, avocado, "special" sauce, a variety of raw fish and fish roe, which detonates salty little bursts in the mouth. A "small plate" of five-spice barbecued pork ribs with mango curry coleslaw delights. So does the piquant tuna tartare. An invigorating salad of Asian pears, endive, watercress and black sesame seeds with watercress dressing presents a peppery contrast of bitter and sweet. The "Bamboo noodle bowl" translates into a rich Cantonese-style broth filled with fat udon noodles, vegetables and meat, a different variety each night. Terrific, too, is a "large plate" of pan-roasted diver scallops with tabbouleh salsa. Grilled filet of beef in Sichuan sauce is tender and savory, accompanied by wok-seared mushrooms and buttery sauteed spinach. Miso-rubbed grilled salmon, served atop a shaved fennel and greens salad, is truly memorable. So is the seared tuna, the interior a deep red, outside lightly charred, accompanied by a melon compote, a guacamole-like mash of avocado, and a ginger-garlic sauce. Desserts are often the downfall of East-meets- West restaurants, but not Bamboo. A warm flourless chocolate cake is nicely offset by a scoop of coconut gelato. Coconut rice pudding with caramelized bananas is soothing and tropical. And ginger crème brûlée, the top warm and crackly, is subtly gingery. Go early, since the noise level swells as the crowd does. Whether you sit in the dining room overlooking a cluster of bamboo stalks outside, at the sushi bar or on the patio, you'll leave planning to return. go to original article Joan Reminick HOURS: ZAGAT online ReviewsReview from "The Hamptons Web"Asian Fusion and Sushi. Located on the west side of Montauk Highway on the way into East Hampton Village (in the building which formerly housed The Georgica Grill and Zizzi Balooba). Finally, this location gets a good solid restaurant. We tried it in the middle of the week, and the fact that they were almost full let us know we had hit a new popular spot in the Hamptons (leading to our only negative comment: a little too noisy for comfortable conversation). Our group was a mix of Japanese and American palates, and all agreed that both the "Small Plates" (appetizers) and "Large Plates" (entrees) were imaginatively conceived, well prepared and handsomely presented. Particularly noteworthy were a Lump Crab & Shrimp Cake with Avocado and Wasabi Vinaigrette ($11 as an appetizer; $22 as an entree) and a Miso Rubbed Grilled Salmon with Shaved Fennel Salad, Micro Greens & Pear Tomatoes entree ($19). A Prawn & Vegetable Tempura entree ($21) was not as light (in color or consistency) as traditional tempura, but was good nonetheless, and the portion was generous. The entree menu was approximately 60% seafood (Steamed Halibut, Seared Sushi Tuna, Pan Roasted Scallops, others); also on the menu were a Crisp Farm Fresh Chicken, a Grilled Filet of Beef, and a "Bamboo Noodle Bowl." Generally speaking, all of the cooked Asian dishes were well above average. A large sushi/sashimi platter called "Big Bamboo" ($45.00) was plenty for one person with a large appetite, and probably large enough for two to share. The sushi was fresh and was served attractively, but was judged not to be particularly imaginative. The wine list is ample and reasonably priced. Open from 6:00 pm to 11:00 pm for dinner 7 days a week (bar opens at 5:30 pm). Starting in the fall of 2002, expect Dim-Sum lunches to be added Sundays from 11:00 am to 3:00 pm. AE, MC, V. Entree price range (excluding sushi): $15.00 to $24.00, sushi/sashimi by the piece: $2.50 to $5.00, sushi/sashimi assortment price range: $15.00 to $45.00; Casual dress. Reservations accepted but not required; full liquor license; large indoor sit-down bar (check out their fresh-fruit martinis). Outdoor patio dining available, weather permitting. Hamptons Web Rating: 74.00 (Very Good) A LA CARTE; Asian Fusion Shows Its Upfront FlavorsArticle by "The New York Times" EACH East End season, at least one Hamptons restaurant becomes a hot spot -- busy, noisy, sleek and sophisticated with a youngish crowd and the sound of ringing cellphones and barely heard music in the air. Bamboo Restaurant and Sushi Lounge, at 47 Montauk Highway (631-329-9821), in East Hampton is just such a place, though it's far more affordable than most of its ilk and unlike some summer splashes, it will be open year round. It will also, no doubt, be considerably quieter and less congested during the cool weather months. Bamboo's almost instant popularity is justified. Much of it results from the way its food tastes, not because of its Hamptons scene. The Asian fusion (read Japanese with a few Chinese and American turns) dishes boast tasty upfront flavors. Garlic, curry, wasabi, ginger, even jalapeño power its creations with their sometimes spicy sauces. When Bamboo falls short, it's not because it's pulling its punches. Patrick Fromm, the executive chef who was at the Laundry in East Hampton, and Morgansan Yao, the sushi chef formerly of Nobu in Manhattan, manage to stay true to the essential spirit of their cuisine, though at times they stray from Asian orthodoxy. Mr. Yao's bagel roll ($7), a combination of smoked salmon and cream cheese, was more Second Avenue Deli than Tokyo sushi bar. Nor was there much Japanese-Chinese influence apparent in Mr. Fromm's crisp, vividly seasoned chicken ($19) escorted by golden beet purée with the consistency of mashed potatoes. But there will be few if any complaints about either of these distinctive dishes. The menu enables diners to order many dishes as either appetizers or entrees. Although its large-plate choices are all main courses, a few small plates can be ordered as either. The array of individual, combo plate and assorted plate sushi, sashimi, sushi rolls and special rolls provide almost infinite possibilities. The 24 pieces of California, spicy tuna, salmon, avocado and spicy yellowtail rolls ($20) all delivered. Other openers that scored bull's-eyes were a delicate seaweed salad ($6) sprinkled with fish roe that punctuated it with flavor, and a refreshing tangle of fruit and greens: Asian pears, endive, baby arugula lightly dressed with honey soy for $8. The two appetizer-entree convertible offering were both outstanding. Other than a trace of avocados, the lump crab and shrimp cakes ($12 and $23) were practically all meat, and the assertively seasoned barbecued spare ribs ($11 and $21) with their coarse-cut mango curry coleslaw offset were dense with deep, zesty flavor. Less appealing was a raw, rubbery octopus salad ($8) and marinated cooked baby octopus ($8) with a slick, off-putting texture. Among the modestly sized main events with noteworthy pizazz were a miso-rubbed grilled salmon ($19) perched on a nest of shaved fennel and arugula; a fine, feathery shrimp and vegetable tempura (with a strong, spicy sauce that has the power to overwhelm it); a flaky, pristine steamed halibut ($21) given an interesting spin by sweet chili and soy; and best of all, the Bamboo noodle bowl ($16), a mélange of udon noodles with shrimp, poultry or beef, tofu and fava beans in broth. The one topped with a scattering of tiny, tender shrimp is especially recommended. All desserts cost $6. The small, powerful warm chocolate cake with a coconut gelato sidecar was a winner, as was the crème brûlée with a subtle ginger overlay (but without a crisp surface). The promised passionfruit sorbet with the mixed berries didn't make the scene in either of two visits and the blood orange sorbet was on the tart, bitter side. Among Bamboo's other attractions are outdoor patio dining, a sushi bar, glasses of wine priced as low as $6 and an understated bamboo-dominated tropical milieu. Service is swift, sometimes too much so; we were asked for our drink order three times within five minutes of being seated. |